We were framed

Well, we weren't framed, but I did frame the large mirror in the upstairs bathroom. For a couple years I've been looking at this website. You just measure your plain builder's grade mirror, fill out the dimensions form, submit, pay and viola! However, I couldn't bring myself to pay over $150.00 for a frame so the mirror sat plain and boring, until now...

This is what it looked like before.

There are these little clips that hold the mirror in place. They were pretty flush with the mirror but it could have been better. I read on multiple blogs you can replace the clamps with washers. I just mounted the frame directly onto the mirror without removing the clamps.

Here is the list of supplies needed:

• Moulding (I used pine baseboard moulding and got it cut at Lowe's for free)
• Liquid Nails (make sure it is the kind that says it is for mirrors)
• Miter saw and box (if you have an electric one I envy you)
• Paintable caulk
• High grit sandpaper (I used 220 grit)
• Frog tape
• Paint or stain

Step One: Measure the width and length of the mirror and add 5-6 inches (you need to measure longer to account for the angle cuts)

 Step Two: Sand every piece of moulding and wipe down.

Step Three: Use miter box and saw to begin cutting the 45 degree angles. You get a pretty sweet arm workout doing this.

                                      
                                   

*Make sure it fits together and also will fit onto the mirror*

Step Four: Paint or stain both sides of the moulding (both sides are needed since it will be "glued" to the mirror and you can see the back side of the moulding in the reflection). I didn't get a picture of this part because it is pretty self explanatory. I applied two coats of stain and one coat of gel topcoat after waiting the appropriate time between coats.

Step Five: Load Liquid Nails into a caulking gun and apply a light coat onto the backside of the moulding.

Step Six: Very carefully put up one piece of moulding at a time. You can also glue the frame together first and then put the whole dang thing up. I tried this and got glue all over the frame (after I had stained it) and it was a disaster. But I'm not great at this so someone else will probably have more luck.

Step Seven: At this point if you need you can apply paintable caulk to the seams. I fortunately did not need to do this step.

Step Eight: Use Frog Tape to help hold frame into place.

I waited 48 hours prior to removing the Frog Tape just to make sure the frame would hold and there you go! A "custom frame" for about $25.00. All I had to buy was the Liquid Nails ($2.00), sandpaper ($3.50), miter box & saw ($8.00), and moulding ($11.00). I had the stain, paintable caulk and Frog Tape at home.

BEFORE

AFTER